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The Golden Age of the Dragon Palace

The Fallen Palaces

For decades, going out for "Chinese" on Long Island wasn't just a meal; it was an event. It was a destination dining experience rooted not in the bustling streets of Beijing or Shanghai, but in the strip malls of Commack, the turnpikes of Levittown, and the boulevards of Great Neck. While the giants are falling, a few classics remain hidden in plain sight across the Island. If you want to pay tribute to this fading era, don't order Grubhub. Go sit down. Order the combination plate with the dark pork fried rice. Get the drink with the umbrella in it. Crack open the fortune cookie and actually read it out loud. And tip generously—because the servers have likely been working there since you were in elementary school.

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